2009
07.11

About

I’ll put some content here when I’m feeling bored, boastful, or simply full of myself.

This blog is really more of a notebook for various projects that I’ve worked on (I refer back to it often when trying to remember a key piece of information), and a way for friends and family to see what sort of things I’ve been tinkering with lately.  I refuse to host ads on the site, but if someone really wanted to support my wide-ranging interests and encourage me to write more, my BTC address is 1GPZprFSNpnSdhK7pxnZbKR9zRRH4je66M

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16 comments so far

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  1. You mean, you aren’t full of yourself now?

    • Well, not nearly as full of myself as I deserve…

  2. …humble, this one…

  3. Dear HaveBlue,

    Could you please tell me the type (voltage, amperage, exact DC type, brushed) of the motor, and also the exact type of the motor controller?

    Best,
    Laszlo

    • Since this was posted to ‘about’, which project are you referring to?

  4. i have an fdm 2000, we got it to print last night but the big issue im having is setting the Z starting point, it wants to start each print 1 inch above the bed surface.
    so any info you can provide about setting x y and most importantly Z start point would be awesome.
    additionally the first sucessfull print was done without support material and we’d like to try to stay that way(availablility cost etc) and i was planning to replace the foam with a glass surface that can be leveled, any thought on this?

    thanks

    • Hi Mike -

      I just got a 2000 myself a few months ago and have been learning the quirks it has (hope to do a blog post on it soon). When you send a job to the printer, the pause light will blink. When you hit the pause button, the machine will home the X Y and Z axes and then pause once more. At this point, use the direction buttons to move the head in the X-Y plane to where you want it to start the print (generally the front left corner), and run the Z stage up so that the model tip is juuuuust buried in the foam. Hit the pause button once more, and the machine should be off and running.

      I’ve played with adding a surface to print on (when I ran out of support material) that I could level, but never had good results with it. In fact, one of the guys at our makerspace is actually thinking about abandoning use of the glass plate on his MegaMax printer, as he’s having better luck with the foil-sided PIR foam from the home improvement store.

  5. Hi,

    Since you were the first to print an AR-15 lower, I wonder: Would you allow me to use one of your pictures in an article about 3D printed guns for a gun mag (waffenkultur.com)? If so, please contact me via the e-mail I registered with here.

    If you have a picture with an even higher resolution of “22-upper-on-3d-printed-lower.jpg”, “buffer-tower-gap.jpg”, “extraction-failure.jpg”, that would be even better.

    Also, please let me know how you would like to be attributed: Name, nickname, domain, something else, pick yours.

  6. I would like to use a few of your pictures for an artcile on 3-D printing for the IEEE Consumer Electronics Magazine. If I can get an e-mail with your permission, that would be great.
    xillia@ieee.org

    • Hi William – I dropped you a line, not sure if you got it. Let me know what photos you’d like to use, as I can provide higher resolution ones than what’s on the site.

  7. Thank you, thank you! From the Feinstein Project

  8. hello sir! I have been doing some reading up on your project, and given that your project is working with 5.56 and holding up to the strength of the DEFCAB file, I was curious if you would be willing to send me the file via e-mail so I can print it and compare it to DEFCAB’s, also, what is the sturdiest material one could use to make this from? I am very new to this sort of thing. Thankyou very much, Sir.

    • Yes, I have a copy of my lower here: http://haveblue.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/ARlower-haveblue-first-version.zip
      However, the Defense Distributed version is better – the buffer tower on mine is unmodified from Duke Snider’s original CAD file and is thinner than on most aluminum lowers, so it needs more material to keep flex down. The sturdiest material you could make one from would probably be PEEK, but there are currently only two machines in the entire US that can print in that material. For a hobbyist type machine, Taulman 618 is probably as strong a material as you’ll find.

  9. Hi HaveBlue,

    My name is Brett, and I am a graduate student at Montana State University in the MFA program for Science and Natural History Filmmaking. For my second year film, I decided to go after a subject that has both the public and my attention: 3d printing guns.
    Obviously after a little Google searching, your name begins to pop up quite a bit!
    I was wondering if you had a contact email, or number where I could maybe get in touch with you? I find all this extremely interesting, and feel like your voice would be a great addition to my film! Feel free to contact me via email!

    Thanks!

    • Hi Brett -

      Certainly, feel free to drop me a line at haveblue at haveblue dot org.

  10. I am hoping the person that posted the dimension cartridge refill will read this. we need to be able to refill cartridges on our 768. we will pay anyone that can help us go through this. even a free trip to denver as well