2009
07.11
07.11
I’ll put some content here when I’m feeling bored, boastful, or simply full of myself.
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This blog is really more of a notebook for various projects that I’ve worked on (I refer back to it often when trying to remember a key piece of information), and a way for friends and family to see what sort of things I’ve been tinkering with lately. I refuse to host ads on the site, but if someone really wanted to support my wide-ranging interests and encourage me to write more, my BTC address is 1GPZprFSNpnSdhK7pxnZbKR9zRRH4je66M
You mean, you aren’t full of yourself now?
Well, not nearly as full of myself as I deserve…
…humble, this one…
Dear HaveBlue,
Could you please tell me the type (voltage, amperage, exact DC type, brushed) of the motor, and also the exact type of the motor controller?
Best,
Laszlo
Since this was posted to ‘about’, which project are you referring to?
i have an fdm 2000, we got it to print last night but the big issue im having is setting the Z starting point, it wants to start each print 1 inch above the bed surface.
so any info you can provide about setting x y and most importantly Z start point would be awesome.
additionally the first sucessfull print was done without support material and we’d like to try to stay that way(availablility cost etc) and i was planning to replace the foam with a glass surface that can be leveled, any thought on this?
thanks
Hi Mike -
I just got a 2000 myself a few months ago and have been learning the quirks it has (hope to do a blog post on it soon). When you send a job to the printer, the pause light will blink. When you hit the pause button, the machine will home the X Y and Z axes and then pause once more. At this point, use the direction buttons to move the head in the X-Y plane to where you want it to start the print (generally the front left corner), and run the Z stage up so that the model tip is juuuuust buried in the foam. Hit the pause button once more, and the machine should be off and running.
I’ve played with adding a surface to print on (when I ran out of support material) that I could level, but never had good results with it. In fact, one of the guys at our makerspace is actually thinking about abandoning use of the glass plate on his MegaMax printer, as he’s having better luck with the foil-sided PIR foam from the home improvement store.
Hi,
Since you were the first to print an AR-15 lower, I wonder: Would you allow me to use one of your pictures in an article about 3D printed guns for a gun mag (waffenkultur.com)? If so, please contact me via the e-mail I registered with here.
If you have a picture with an even higher resolution of “22-upper-on-3d-printed-lower.jpg”, “buffer-tower-gap.jpg”, “extraction-failure.jpg”, that would be even better.
Also, please let me know how you would like to be attributed: Name, nickname, domain, something else, pick yours.